Hair is at its healthiest when it first emerges from the follicle—much like a brand-new cashmere sweater. Over time, without proper care, that sweater begins to pill and lose its luster.

Much like the sweater, the hair shaft becomes vulnerable to cumulative damage, eventually turning frizzy, brittle, and more likely to break—which leads to hair loss.

“Certain activities ... can contribute to hair breaking easily, and that’s going to look like you’re losing hair,” Dr. Cameron Rokhsar, a dermatologist and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, told The Epoch Times.

Proper combing, washing, blow-drying, and conditioning are fundamental to protecting the integrity of the hair shaft.

Unfortunately, many people unknowingly adopt hair care routines that damage their hair. Here are some common mistakes—and how to avoid them.

1. Overusing Dyes and Perms

One of the most common causes of hair breakage is overprocessing, which includes frequent chemical treatments such as coloring and perming, as well as excessive blow-drying.

These practices are very damaging to the hair, Rokhsar said. Yet many people dye or perm every two to three months—or even monthly—which, he said, is too often.

Among Americans older than age 40, 10 percent of men and between 50 percent and 80 percent of women have dyed their hair.

Hair consists of three layers. The cuticle—the outermost protective layer of the hair shaft—is made up of more than six layers of overlapping scale-like cells. Hair is at its healthiest when the cuticle is intact and the scales are tightly sealed. This smooth, uniform surface enhances the reflection of light, giving hair its natural shine and silky texture.

When hair is permed or dyed, the process deliberately disrupts the cuticle layer, allowing chemicals to penetrate. As a result, chemically treated hair can never fully regain the softness or resilience it once had.

Take perming as an example. In experiments using fluorescent tracers, researchers found that permed hair allowed an average penetration depth of up to 25 micrometers, compared with just 5 micrometers in healthy, untreated hair fibers.

Unlike temporary styling methods, perming involves lifting the cuticle scales and then breaking and reshaping the chemical bonds within the hair’s cortex to permanently alter the hair’s structure. Although certain conditioning or softening treatments can smooth and repair the cuticle, these effects wear off. Once the hair is washed, the temporary protective layer is rinsed away.

Over time—and with repeated chemical treatments—the cuticle cells become damaged and disordered. Hair gradually takes on a coarse, straw-like appearance.

Heat exposure during perming also causes the hair to lose moisture and breaks down amino acids, making it more fragile. For example, in chemical straightening, at least 35 percent of cysteine is broken down, reshaping the hair from curly to straight.

In the case of hair coloring, dyes penetrate the cuticle and settle into the cortex—the middle layer of the hair shaft. The oxidative reaction breaks down the hair’s natural pigments and forms new color molecules, causing irreversible damage to the hair shaft. Additionally, the alkaline agents and oxidizers in these dyes further reduce the hair’s strength.

2. Misusing Shampoo

Many people work shampoo through the full length of their hair and scrub vigorously.

The correct way to wash your hair is first to lather the shampoo in your hands and focus on cleansing the scalp. Then, allow the foam to flow through the lengths of your hair, gently guiding it with your fingers instead of scrubbing.

Dr. Armen Nikogosian, a functional medicine physician, recommends using shampoo two to three times a week. In most cases, using shampoo every single day might be too much. Rinsing with plain water is sufficient, he told The Epoch Times.

Most of the common shampoos tend to dry out both the scalp and hair, and frequent exposure to harsh ingredients can irritate the scalp. Shampoo also removes sebum—a natural hair conditioner that helps smooth the cuticle layer and reduce static.

Gentle cleansing with plain water allows the scalp to breathe, reduces inflammation, and helps restore the scalp’s natural ability to balance oil production.

However, for people living in polluted environments or those with naturally oily scalps, daily washing may be necessary.

“With shampoos that are sulfate-free, your scalp does not become inflamed,” Dr. Manish Mittal, hair transplant surgeon and founder and CEO of the Mittal Hair Clinic in London, told The Epoch Times. Sulfates are harsh cleansing agents that can strip the hair and scalp of their natural oils and moisture.

Shu Rong, a traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) practitioner and director of Doctor Rong TCM Clinic in Cambridge, England, recommends using African black soap and handmade varieties formulated with natural oils such as olive oil.

If you go swimming at the beach or in a pool, wash your hair with a shampoo formulated to remove salt and chlorine. Saltwater from the sea and chlorine from pools both strip moisture and weaken the hair’s structure.

3. Skipping Conditioner

Some people—especially men—may find using conditioner cumbersome or worry that it makes their hair greasy. However, conditioning after shampooing is an essential step that should not be skipped.

The hair shaft cannot regenerate or repair itself. As hair ages and sustains damage, the protective cuticle layer begins to wear away, leading to permanent gaps in the shaft and a decrease in strength. Additionally, the shift in pH after shampooing can cause the cuticle to lift, making hair more prone to losing moisture and protein.

After each wash, conditioner helps reseal the cuticle and fill in the gaps, offering crucial protection against further damage.

Rokhsar recommends using conditioner even for those with oily hair. Generally, oiliness at the roots is not caused by the conditioner itself.

For those who prefer to avoid synthetic conditioners, Rokhsar suggests the use of natural oils such as olive oil, coconut oil, and almond oil, which he describes as “great natural substitutes for a conditioner.” Natural oils contain proteins that can penetrate the hair shaft and remain inside, helping to replenish lost protein.

Depending on individual needs, the oils can be applied to the hair shaft or both hair and scalp, and should be left on for at least five to 10 minutes before rinsing.

Another common household item that can help soften the hair is vinegar.

Shu recommends applying a diluted vinegar solution—a 1:10 ratio of white vinegar or apple cider vinegar to warm water—over the scalp and hair after thoroughly rinsing out the shampoo foam. Afterward, rinse again with warm water to remove any residual vinegar. Its natural acidity helps seal the cuticle, which leaves hair smoother and shinier.

Vinegar rinses may also benefit overall scalp health, she said.

People with dry hair and scalp should follow conditioning with a hair and scalp serum or oil. To optimize this step, apply hair oil to damp hair and scalp—rather than dry—to lock in moisture, Rokhsar said.

4. Improper Blow-Drying

How you dry and brush your hair after you wash it makes a difference.

Wet hair is particularly fragile. Many people pull and straighten their wet hair while blow-drying with high heat. That practice can break down the chemical bonds within the hair, making it more susceptible to breakage, Rokhsar said.

The best way to dry hair is to gently blot it with a towel to absorb excess moisture, allow it to air-dry, and then carefully detangle it using a wide-tooth comb made from a smooth material.

Heat-styling tools—such as blow-dryers, flat irons, and curling wands—can damage the hair shaft.

When wet hair is exposed to high heat, the moisture inside the shaft turns to steam and escapes, while the proteins in the hair become more vulnerable to breakdown. Under a microscope, bubbles can be seen forming within the hair shaft because of high-temperature steam, a condition known as bubble hair. This type of damage may gradually improve once heat styling is discontinued.

You can still use heat-styling tools with caution. Using a lower heat setting on your blow-dryer and holding it at a six-inch distance from the hair can minimize harm. For heated styling tools, opt for the lowest effective setting—or allow the device to cool slightly before use.

5. Overlooking Scalp Massages

Scalp massage is a simple daily habit that can help promote healthier hair growth. It stimulates blood flow and activates hair follicles, encouraging them to transition into the growth phase.

“Massage might aid in the prevention of hair loss,” according to Alexandra Roach, a board-certified holistic health practitioner and contributor to The Epoch Times. Consistency is key—occasional massages would not make a meaningful difference, she said.

A study involving 327 people with androgenetic alopecia (permanent hair loss) found that after an average of seven months of daily scalp massage, performed for 11 to 20 minutes per day, nearly 70 percent of them reported either stabilization of hair loss or signs of regrowth. The researchers noted that, on average, participants began to perceive improvement after accumulating 36 hours of massage.

In a separate 24-week study involving nine healthy Japanese men, regular scalp massage resulted in increased hair thickness and also caused significant changes in gene expression within the scalp. The mechanical stimulation altered the activity of more than 5,000 genes in hair follicle cells—upregulating genes involved in the hair growth cycle and downregulating those associated with hair loss.

Many people instinctively massage their scalp while shampooing—but often not for long enough.

Hair washing offers an ideal opportunity for scalp massage, but duration is key, Nikogosian said. “You want to do it for a solid two to four minutes,” he said.

For best results, use your fingertips to apply moderate pressure and move them back and forth across the scalp.

Mary Helen Lee, a clinical herbalist and founder of Green Medicine Acupuncture and Apothecary, shared another method for boosting scalp circulation: Start with warm water during a shower and alternate between warm and cold water. Alternating between temperatures causes the blood vessels to constrict and dilate, which can enhance blood flow to the scalp.

As Within so Without

Although these tips can help you ensure the health of your hair from the outside, you'll need to go deeper to ensure hair health over the long term.

“Hair is more than just an external feature—it reflects your inner health and vitality,” Shu said.

“When that inner harmony is achieved, it naturally manifests in the health and appearance of your hair.”

Harmony reflects how you care for your body overall, as well as your mind. Eating well, managing stress, and engaging in rejuvenating activities, restful sleep, and nourishing relationships will help ensure that you shine within—and without.