Commentary
When you think of restaurants with a Hollywood background, what comes to mind? The Brown Derby, Romanoff’s, and the Coco Palms were all favorite haunts of the movie crowd during the Golden Age of Hollywood. Sadly, all three, and countless other classic Los Angeles eating establishments, have closed, making the way for more modern restaurants.
We associate the glamorous movie industry with the Los Angeles area, but it’s easy to forget that the Hollywood crowd left footprints far beyond the shadow of the Hollywood sign. Actors, directors, screenwriters, and producers fled from the pressures of Tinseltown by escaping in every direction when they had some free time. As a result, there are little pockets of forgotten yet fascinating Hollywood history throughout Southern California.
One historic restaurant I’ve discovered is Café La Maze in National City, which is in southwestern San Diego County. Unlike downtown San Diego, National City isn’t a popular tourist destination. Although San Diegans tend to think of other cities in the county as being too far too drive, National City is only six miles south on the I-5 freeway of downtown San Diego. This classic steakhouse is a hidden gem of Hollywood history, which you don’t often find in San Diego County.
A meal at Café La Maze in National City, Calif. (Courtesy of Christos Kapetanios)
About the Restaurant
I was researching old restaurants in the San Diego area, and Café la Maze is one of the most historic restaurants in National City, having been in business for over 80 years. I contacted the owner, who graciously consented to an interview while inviting my family to enjoy dinner at the classic steakhouse. As we drove along Highland Avenue, approaching the restaurant, I noticed that old lampposts lined the streets. I immediately sensed the old Hollywood presence in the area. National City doesn’t look like a place with a lot of Hollywood history, but whenever I see vintage lampposts in a Southern California city, I interpret it as a sign that Hollywood folks likely used to spend time there.
Café la Maze is a somewhat plain brick building, but a neon sign and awning over the door hint at its inner stardom. The building was constructed for this restaurant. Once you step inside, you’ll feel like you’re in a classy restaurant in an old movie. The décor is classic, refined, and elegant, with red leather booths, ornate retro wallpaper, and warm lighting. Besides the decorations, the framed pictures of Hollywood royalty who frequented the restaurant will really make you feel like you’ve stepped into a 1940s movie scene. Lana Turner, Marlene Dietrich, and Johnny Weissmuller are just a few of the stars who loved Café la Maze.
Actress Marlene Dietrich sits with film director Josef von Sternberg in a booth at the Hollywood location of Cafe La Maze, circa 1935. (Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Delicious History
Café la Maze was founded in 1941 by Hollywood restauranteur Marcel Lamaze. The National City restaurant was the second Café la Maze he opened, the first having been a Sunset Boulevard hotspot. His film industry friends convinced him to find a location for a restaurant on the way to Mexico, since the Caliente Racetrack in Tijuana became a popular destination during Prohibition. The party moved south of the border, where alcohol and gambling were legal. Although California legalized racehorse betting and Prohibition was repealed in 1933, movie folks still enjoyed escaping to Mexico. Along the way, they would stop at Café la Maze, just 11 miles from the border, for food, drinks, and a little illegal gambling in the room upstairs. The restaurant’s grand opening was a star-studded event, attended by luminaries like Clark Gable, Bing Crosby, and Errol Flynn.
Christos Kapetanios is the current owner of Café la Maze. He took it over in 2009, explaining, “I tried buying it a couple of times, because I love the history of the place.” Although six or seven owners managed the restaurant before he bought it, he’s tried to keep the menu fairly close to the original. When I asked about the most popular dishes, he replied, “We’re known for our prime rib. Prime rib is number one. Barbecue beef ribs are also a very good entry.” As for appetizers, calamari and shrimp are popular selections, while creme brulee is the most popular dessert. The rest of the menu features traditional American fair, including steaks and seafood. There’s also a full-service bar.
Café la Maze has been through a lot, but it’s still going strong. Mr. Kapetanios said that it was very difficult to cope with the challenges during the pandemic, saying, “I didn’t think I would be able to make it, to keep the doors open. It was tough. It’s the worst business to be in. We were not set up for outside dining or a lot of to-go orders.” The only thing keeping the restaurant going was faithful customers. “Our clientele has helped us do that,” Mr. Kapetanios gratefully explained, adding, “Customers have been coming here for many years. They celebrated their birthdays, anniversaries, when they closed big deals. So they’ve been coming here for a long time.” Although customers come from all over the San Diego area, the restaurant remains “a hidden secret” because they haven’t been able to appeal to tourists.
A meal at Café La Maze in National City, Calif. (Courtesy of Christos Kapetanios)
Where and When
Café la Maze is located at 1441 Highland Ave in National City. It’s open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. They have live music seven nights a week, with a different group each night. According to Mr. Kapetanios, “Over the last 13 years that I’ve been here, we’ve had very talented musicians come by. Now we have them playing every day of the week. Different music, jazz, blues, a little of everything. On Wednesdays, for example, or Thursdays, we have a lot of people walking in and playing in the band.” This adds an old-fashioned charm, beyond the delicious food and endearing atmosphere.
This steakhouse was founded eight decades ago, and they’re still serving up great American fare. I tried the prime rib, and it’s juicy and delicious. If you’re in Southern California, I encourage you to take a drive to National City to visit the lovely Café La Maze for a glamorous evening out. The restaurant is a little bit of Hollywood history and Americana, and it’s worth the trip if you want to see some old Hollywood history in an unexpected location.
